Day 32
Travel day! Our day consisted of:
- 5 hour bus from Puerto Natales to El Calafate – through customs from Chile to Argentina
- 4 hour wait in El Calafate
- 3 hour flight from El Calafate to Buenos Aires
We arrived at our $25 per night hostel just after midnight. This place is actually really good considering the low price!
Day 33
We set off to do a free walking tour as we generally do when we arrive to a big city. We learnt a lot about the history of Buenos Aires. What I found the most interesting was the ‘golden ages’ era from the 1880s to the 1920s where the meat trade and agriculture exports were in full bloom with the UK. The British even brought their train technology to Argentina to pump up agriculture exports – all trains in Buenos Aires drive on the left (just like the UK), whereas the cars drive on the right. During the ‘golden ages’ period Argentina was one of the richest countries in the world and a lot of the city was rebuilt into cobbled streets and big stone buildings. A lot of the original buildings built by the Spanish colony were torn down during this period.
Buenos Aires also went through many many years of military dictatorships from the 1930s. During the worst and most recent dictatorship from 1976-1983 over 30,000 people went (and still are) “missing”. It still is a very strong feeling of the bad times that occurred here in Argentina. I think we will need to learn more about Argentina’s history.
As we were walking around the city, we would notice massive beautiful stone and marble buildings, and then right next to it, sometimes attached to the building would be a big glass / concrete block skyscraper. It just doesn’t look right or make sense! Where were the town planners or urban designers to put a stop to some of the rubbish buildings built by developers!
We also worked out why we are so confused about the currency here! The inflation rates are huge in Argentina. In the last 12 months the inflation of the Argentinian Peso has increased by 45%. All Argentinians expect it to go up, even our guide signed a rental agreement last year with a term included stating that the rent will go up by 12.5% every 6 months! Turns out he got a good deal! lol. Since then we have realised everything that is very expensive, such as a car or a house, or a hotel or tour that is booked a few weeks in advance is all sold at an American dollar price!
Once the tour ended, we went for a look around a cemetery. Yes, it sounds boring. But no, this cemetery is amazing. There were no standard graves – this is where the rich, past presidents etc were (and still are) being buried in Argentina. All the graves are buildings or chambers, and most go about 2-3m deep below the ground. It was a bit creepy, we could peer through the windows of these chambers and see coffins just sitting there of whole families that were buried. The chambers felt bigger than our old apartment in Randwick! I was like, daymmm, these guys must have sold a lot of beef back in the golden ages! We got lost in the cemetery – but eventually found our way out. I’m glad we didn’t go here on a gloomy day… it was a bit creepy!
We then kept wandering north and ended up in a huge park called Parque 3 De Febrero. We had a bit of a snooze and hung out for a bit. We come across this big group of dancers who were all following the moves to a lead dancer on stage and jiving to some cool tunes. I think it was a fitness thing, like Zumba but better. Some people were good, some were my level of bad – which is the kind of bad that is very stiff at the hips, and can only move the lower body at the knees and ankles. But, it was so cool to see loads of random people come together and have a dance in a park. I didn’t even see anyone twerk either, love it.
We headed into the Palermo area which is known for its bars and food culture. We went to La Cabrera for dinner, it was a bit more pricy that what El and I have been eating, but we thought stuff it. We ordered a steak. I almost cried. It was so good. The Argentinian’s really don’t muck around with their beef. This was a very upmarket place but El & I got in with shorts and nikes 🙂
Big first day! We went home via the fantastic subway system (bloody hell Sydney you need one of these) and slept very, very well.
Day 34
Today we went for a bit more of a walk around town and the San Telmo district filled with cobbled streets and nice old buildings. Buenos Aires is so big! We then walked down to the La Boca district. This was (and still is) the poor area of Buenos Aires. A section of it has now been turned into a big tourist attraction. Turns out we probably shouldn’t have walked these through the streets we did, tourists are told to only stick to the tourist area of La Boca as petty crime can be a problem, even in the day. Anyways – we got through unscathed!
The touristy area of La Boca has been set up by the locals for a way for them to make money selling their home made crafts and food. To set up a stall they need to be registered and have a card showing they live in the La Boca area.
We had a bit of a wander around and then decided to head home for a bit of a siesta. We went via the bus this time – I really don’t want to lose my Garmin watch!
We went out to a burger place for dinner, almost better than Barlioche! We wanted to go to a football game tonight but unfortunately tickets sold out, we watched it on the tv instead. It looked amazing! The crowds are crazy. Apparently a supporter once ripped a whole toilet out of the bathroom and threw it on the ground! And also no away supporters are allowed to attend games anymore because of their safety. Crazy passion.
Day 35
We had a bit more of a walk around the city and the cobbled streets of San Telmo. Ellen is getting a bit sick at the moment so we went home and had a rest for the day and watched some Netflix.
For the night, we planned on going to a band called El Bano de Tempo (The Time Bomb). They are a band of 17 with drums that plays every Monday night in front of a 3000 plus crowd. We arrived and unfortunately tickets were sold out! We think this is because it is a public holiday there is a lot of locals out and about. We were a bit disappointed but we instead went to Carnaval Porteno – it is the last weekend it was on for the year. It was so cool, there were lots of parades and music and drums, and stupid kids with this foam spray that would sting the eyeballs. I am not against punching a 10 year old Argentinian kid. Just kidding. But not really, I will do it. There would have been over 100,000 people on the street, it was lots of fun.
Day 36
I went for a well needed run in the morning. Damn it hurt – too many cheese coated chips I think. Worth it!
We hung out until midday, and booked a lot of stuff for the next legs of our trip. We then went to Palermo for a bit more of a look around there. Ellen tried to have a conversation with an nice old Argentinian guy at a flee market we went to. When he finally understood she was from Australia he responded “ahhh…. uhhh… Lleyton Hewwwwiiiit!?” and proceeded to pretend to play tennis. We are finding everyone is really nice if we smile and say “mi eapanyol es malo (my Spanish is bad)”.
We walked around Palermo to find somewhere half healthy to eat. Kind of hard when a lot of the food is just burgers and steak! Palermo reminds us of Surry Hills, but on steroids. It is sooooo big! We eventually found a cafe and ordered some salads and juices – health kick here we come…. We saw some people order some cakes, they looked so good! So we inquired, they had a cheesecake so that was getting the nod for me. The waiter also then said they have a cake that is an Argentinian desert. So of course we also ordered that as well! That was a big mistake. People in the cafe, along with us, laughed when it came out. See photo below. The Argentinian cake was up to my shoulder – but it was very very delicious. We only got through only a quarter of it. Oh well, desert for the next few nights. We had a go at being healthy, I just don’t think it is possible while on vacation, especially in Buenos Aires.
Day 37
I went for another run in an attempt to burn off some of that cake! The streets were packed now because everyone is back from work as the carnaval holiday is over. We went down to La Boca again for a walking tour to understand more about the history of the area. We learnt more about the poverty in the area – there are still 500,000 people in this area without water or sewer services. We learnt more about the disappeared people during the last dictatorship era. There are still mothers of the missing who protest every Thursday outside the government house asking where the 30,000 missing people are, including their own sons and daughters. Very very sad.
We then caught a bus to the Recoleta district to a pub to watch the Champions League round of 16 second leg – Manchester United Vs Paris. It was a very vocal crowd, lots of supporters for both teams were present. It was very close – I wish we got to go to a local Argentinian game! They sure do love their football!
We then went to the Almagro area (via the fantastic Subway system) to a tango club for a beginners class! The class was at a place called La Cathedral which is a traditional Milonga (a place where people meet to dance Tango). Before the Milonga gets going they hold a couple of classes for anyone to attend for about $7AUD. It is in an old warehouse, with a bit of a bar if you could call it that. It is kind of cool, it reminds me of a haunted house! By the end of the lesson Ellen & I were still stepping on each other’s feet so I don’t think tango is for us! The teacher couldn’t speak much English so we would just get told “no” a lot. It was a lot of fun though! We then sat around with a beer and watched the next class. Apparently between 11pm-2am the locals come and dance, we were keen to see how the pro’s do it but not many turned up! Wednesday’s must be their night off.
We headed back home and ate some left over cake! Delicious.
Day 38
We slept in until almost midday. I am having some serious Aussie coffee withdrawals and found a place online! We went and checked it out – the fine establishment is called Negro cafe. They have awesome Flat Whites, and really good aircon. I was so stoked, I had two coffees.
We bummed around the city for the rest of the day, people watching and lying in the grassy parks in the shade. It was a Thursday, so at 3:30pm we went to see the protest the Mothers of the missing do every week. It was very moving and sad that some of these women still don’t know what happened to their sons and daughters.
For the rest of the day we hung out at the hostel and got ready for our departure to Puerto Iguazu tomorrow. After a lot of persistence, Ellen convinced me to go to the Tango club again to watch and hopefully see some pro’s! I was promised bottomless red wine which was the selling point.
Some experienced Tango dancers turned up at around midnight and there was also a band. It was really cool to see. Oh, and the wine was $4 AUD a bottle. Yummo.
Buenos Aires has been great. It is a awesome city with a bit of everything. Ellen & I both rate it well above the city of Santiago. We will definitely come back again to get better at Tango!
More photos located here.
Justin & Ellen's travels 